The ancient capital is busy making up for lost time with ambitious city-building spanning waterfront newbuilds (Ellinikon), new metro lines connecting soulful destination neighbourhoods like Exarcheia (whose central square is considered the heart of this great city) and the reopening of grand buildings as cultural hubs. Right in the city centre, the ancient Municipal Market of Kypseli hosts community parties, concerts and workshops, and the old National Opera building is now the Olympia Municipal Musical Theatre Maria Callas. Appropriately, the famed Greek opera star has a new boutique hotel boasting her nickname, La Divina, set in the former Odeon Athenaeum music hall. Returning visitors stroll the refreshed Grand Promenade, a 2.5-mile tree-lined and car-free walkway at the foot of the Acropolis that connects the city’s major archaeological sites, revelling in the city’s Top 10 Nature & Parks ranking, a reflection of this investment in green space. The renovated National Gallery reopened in 2021 after eight years that doubled its size and let in ample natural light to showcase the European art. Dozens of new hotels include the One&Only Aesthesis on a private oceanfront estate, the sensual feast that is the Brown Acropol and even a new Ace Hotel & Swim Club in Glyfada.